Belfast
The weekend began at 4.45am yesterday morning when the alarm went off. It was cold and dark and foggy, and we stumbled out of bed to head out to Stanstead and then onto a plane all the way to Belfast.
It's Tim's 30th birthday and he invited us to join him in Belfast to celebrate. Having not been, and it being my weekend off work, we agreed, and I'm ever so glad we did, as aside from one smallish hiccup yesterday (and the one to do with the booking of the tickets, which we don't mention) it's been a great weekend.
I don't know what I was expecting Belfast to be like if I'm honest. I've heard lots about it, both from my good friend David (who I managed not to see yesterday alas, due to not being very good at planning and him not turning on his mobile) and of course from the news reports down the years related to the troubles. I suppose I expected a city that was somewhat rundown after all the years of fighting and tension, but what we found was a modern, vibrant, regenerating city- not afraid to face up to its past, but one that seemed to be looking ahead. In fact it seemed far better for that than several other UK cities I've visited.
Of course the Troubles cast a long shadow over the city, and today we took a tour out to some of the infamous sites in Belfast's history- both Protestant and Catholic. It seemed quite odd to reflect that not too long ago we'd hear about The Falls Road and the Shankhill Road as violent places, not really imagining I'd ever take a tour round them. I didn't feel entirely comfortable with it to be honest- no-one else seemed to feel it, but maybe it's because I'm older and so I remember a bit more about it all.
It's not really my place to comment on the rights and wrongs of the past_ I understand very little about it , but seeing the murals on both sides commemorating their "heroes" was a bit odd- a bit of a glorification in the wrong place, as was the memorial to the IRA members who were killed in the troubles- a commemoration of terrorists. It just seemed wrong to me.
And it's not really over in any solid way,as the 30ft high wall between the two areas testifies. I wasn't expecting that and the gated entrances between the areas that are still closed each night really brought it home. The driver said that if they took the wall down there'd be trouble on the first evening. I guess the hatred between the two sides is too deep seated to truly go away quickly. Sad but true.
Anyway, none of that stopped it being a good weekend. Thank goodness! We came to celebrate and celebrate we did. Or at least we just did what we normally do in a different place! Went to the pub, chatted and laughed a lot only in Belfast. Good pubs though- great beer (I particularly liked the Smithwicks in White's Tavern) and some great food too. Luckily we had Tim's cousin Mike,who lives int he city to guide us round. That helped us a great deal. It was a shame though that Steve succumbed to the drink before we went for dinner, as we missed out on the meal, but it did give me an excuse to get a much earlier night than everyone else, which was much needed at that point if I'm honest.
We got a good tour of the city centre earlier on, as we arrived before everyone else. We went up on the wheel in front of the city hall and although it was foggy and I didn't feel comfortable at the top, the views were good. The Christmas Market was also worth a visit, although we didn't buy anything there (except a Wild Board burger which was ever so tasty) as we'd no way to get it home. St George's market was great too, with a massive selection of thing to eat and some stores seeing out of the ordinary stuff. Again it was a shame we couldn't really buy anything there to bring home.
It was very cold though. It didn't really rise much over freezing point yesterday and there was already a penetrating frost when we headed back to the hostel last night at 9.50. It was just as cold today too and my feet are still cold even now. Good thing I bought some new thermal gloves and found my scarf. I really needed them!
Our trip was rounded off today with lunch at The Crown, the oldest pub in Belfast, with it's wonderful snugs. I had the Irish Stew, which was ever so tasty. I love Irish Stew. I think we might be having champ at home sometime soon too.
So happy birthday Tim, and thanks to everyone for a great weekend.